Sunday, February 28, 2016

BBBC #28 and Another Ural Update

This post is part of the blogger challenge titled BBBC. Today's topic is:

28. Childhood photo

I'll pick one that has my brother as well. It's pretty easy to figure out who is who. This is one of the few photos that I have from way back then. I suspect that there may be others but have no idea where to find them.

Ural Update

This afternoon, I spent some time cleaning up some of the engine pieces and parts including the block. It sort of fit into my small solvent tank and with the solvent pump, I flushed out the oil passages to make sure that there wasn't any aluminum chips (there weren't) as well as cleaning out some of the caked on oil and dirt. I then started to scrape off any leftover gasket material still stuck to the block. I still need to blow any solvent from the passages with compressed air but the block, timing cover, right cylinder and oil pan look nice and clean now.

Maybe I should put in some effort to clean the frame, transmission and final drive. The only caked on oil was around the pushrod seals from last year when the crankcase vent was freezing. No oil leaks from the rear main seal into the bell housing. The only task before reassembly is to press out the rear main bearing from the bearing retainer. A hydraulic press would sure be nice for this task.

13 comments:

Learning to Golf said...

That thing may last forever when you get back together Richard. Plus you will have the satisfaction of having done it on your own. Wouldn't that BMW engine fit a Ural?

Unknown said...

Hey, that's a cool photo, Richard. Are you the kid on the left?

Cleaning components... It does indeed sound like the contraption is about ready for reassembly. Have your parts arrived, or are you still waiting for them (patiently, I presume ;) )?

RichardM said...

Not sure how of the satisfaction part but doing it myself is the best option. It's a pretty straightforward engine especially compared to others that I've done in the past.

A BMW 247 engine would fit though the transmission bolt pattern is different, the older flywheel and clutch need to be used and the oil filter ends up being behind the frame. So not a trivial transplant.

RichardM said...

Yes, the one on the left…

Nope, still waiting for parts. Supposedly the later half of the week

redlegsrides said...

I really dislike waiting for parts, the impatient side of me.

Looks like the clutch issue wasn't resolved on my rig by replacing the throwout bearing assembly. Developed similar clutch problems coming home from a ride today, no amount of adjusting the cable allowed me to get going smoothly. Limped the rig home, now waiting to talk to Randy, the URAL dealer to see what the next step is. It feels like not only the replacement bearing assembly is toast but there's now grinding noises coming from the clutch pack area. Sigh.

RichardM said...

I'm still trying to understand how the whole setup works. The square end of the rod (#2) is fitted into the clutch disk which means that parts #2, 3, 4, and 6 are always rotating with the engine. #8, 9 and the second washer of 5 are fixed and never rotate. The first washer of #5 rotates with the engine whenever the clutch lever is engaged. Is #6 a screw? If so, if it is over tightened, then the bearing is never allowed to spin between the washers and you will get a lot of wear between #2 and #4. All the numbers are referring to the diagram from the parts book in your post.

The grinding could be #2 disintegrating and the square end being twisted off. Just a thought not having taking that section apart yet. Maybe I'll take a look later this evening.

redlegsrides said...

#6 is indeed a screw which secures #5 onto #4. However, with #6 fully tightened, #5 rotates freely (it's basically two washers sandwiching the bearings contained in a thin race).

#2 rotates with clutch pack.

#4 rotates when you actuate the clutch lever, its rotation compensated for by #5.

#5 rotates inside the cavity in which it sits, on the bottom of #9.

I think, that at the very least, the throwout bearing assembly (5) is toast again, possible damage to #2 given the noises I heard. Most likely some damage to the clutch disks within the clutch pack.

Am waiting to hear from dealer before tearing into anything. I adjusted the cable, again, to the point where I could get the gearbox into first, then neutral. I can even fire up the engine, in first gear, and not have it jump forward. Pretty much the same as when I first experienced a curious large amount of slack in the clutch cable, which turned out to be the throwout bearing failing.

I hope to hear from the dealer on Tuesday. They're closed Sunday/Monday. I'll most likely trailer the rig to him on Tuesday/Wednesday as the rig is under warranty.

RichardM said...

Warranty is nice to have, eh? What happens when the warranty runs out...

David Masse said...

Maybe it's time you guys did a tandem project putting together matching Honda side car rigs.

When I was leaving my dealer after having the Honda Shadow serviced, one of the mechanics walked by and said "ahh, Honda, indestructible..."

RichardM said...

No reverse or 2WD. The BMW engine swap is more attractive since both of those features are retained.

redlegsrides said...

There's some options. Transplant a BMW engine onto Scarlett, get a spare URAL rig, perhaps Jialing Motorcycles will be allowed to export their seemingly spiffy JH600B-A sidecar rig to the USA, or you know, come to my senses and get an Airhead Tug/Rig.

ToadMama said...

Cute pic. I am not at all mechanical. Luckily, Hubby is, so he keeps our stuff maintained. I don't think he'd want to tackle a project as big as what you're doing, though. Maybe in his younger days. :-)

RichardM said...

Fortunately, I have "free time" for such projects. But I probably would've done it anyway.