Tuesday, March 8, 2016

Ural Engine Assembly - 2

After messing around with the cam and the oil pump drive gear last night, I decided to take it to someone who has a hydraulic press. I've had work done at Port's Machine Shop here in town and thought that they would be careful with the nose of the cam (far right side of the picture). I'm told that this is pretty fragile and if it's damaged at all, the cam needs to be replaced. Anyway the cam is ready but I plan on installing the crank first. Time to start working on installing the main bearing onto the new crank.

While I was out and about this morning, I stopped at AIH (Alaska Industrial Hardware) to see what they had for hydraulic presses. On their website, they only list one press for around $800. But they have smaller and cheaper offerings in their store. If I picked this one up, 17% of it would've been covered by this one task. Plus it would've made disassembly of the engine simpler. This same press is listed at Harbor Freight for significantly less but the nearest store is in WA. I'm told that a press isn't necessary for either of the main bearings. Hopefully that's true.

Later - The rear main bearing is now in the bearing retainer. Tomorrow morning, JedR is stopping by to help and I'll wait until then to tackle the large snap ring that holds the bearing into the retainer. Tomorrow, we will tackle getting the crank into the engine which involves installing the front main bearing both onto the crank and into the front bearing retainer. Which reminds me, I need to remove the bolts for the front bearing retainer and put on some blue thread lock. The manual says to use safety wire but they had thread lock on them.

In today's mail, the deep sump pan and pump extension arrived. The deep sump pan holds an additional quart of oil and is sold by Ural. The extension is made by Crawford Sales and Service in South Lyon, MI. Considering how tight the engine fit in the frame I'm kind of wondering if it can be installed with the deep sump pan installed.

To be cont...

4 comments:

  1. hmmm, it is a bit of a acrobatic act, removing the engine from the frame....I bet the deep sump has to be removed in order to get everything to tilt out of the frame.

    big socket to push the rear main bearing into its retainer?

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    1. According to Darrell, the deep sump pan needs to be installed after the engine is in the frame.

      I didn't have anything that large to push against the outer race. But the bearing went in over half way by hand. I had picked up some ½" rod stock from Lowes and cut about a 10" piece. I used that as a drift to tap the bearing in place. It's recommended to use a brass drift but the important thing is use something softer than the bearing.

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  2. Thanks for taking the time to document the assembly. I suppose only "gear head" folks like us appreciate the details of such a task, but we fit that description!....lol.

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    1. I think I fit that description as well. I must admit that I enjoy working on this old school stuff. Pretty straightforward and easy to understand. And motorcycle engines are so much lighter.

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