I have not installed a relay (yet) with a distribution block near the battery for accessory power. Right now, in addition to the heated gear power, the sidecar has a seperate, always-on fuse block. That could come off of the same relay for accessories.
I don't know if it's me or not but the sidecar wheel seems really out of balance. The vibration I was feeling was just like the Beemer/Cozy rig when the sidecar wheel was really out of balance. Last night, I removed and balanced the front wheel and the sidecar wheel. The front wheel took 1 oz (reasonable) but the sidecar wheel took 4 oz (unreasonable). And the vibration is still there. I think that maybe I should just remove, rotate and reinstall the sidecar tire as the bead doesn't look uniform all the way around. Maybe the tire isn't round anymore or the wheel needs to be trued up. When I removed the sidecar wheel, I checked the splines. They are in good shape and there was grease though it appeared to be simple axle grease and not the high moly grease that should be used. Both the front and sidecar wheel bearings feel smooth with no play. But the nut holding on the sidecar wheel wasn't tight and there was some play when I first jacked up the wheel. The sidecar brakes seemed a little tight i.e. the shoes drag when the wheel is turned but wear seems minimal
I ordered three new tires but they won't be in for a couple more weeks. I hope that there is enough tire life to make a trip over Labor Day. The pusher was new when I picked up the rig but the front, sidecar and spare are worn.
BTW, the heated gear works wonderfully!
Friday Evening Update - I pulled the sidecar wheel off again. Then remove the tire, flipped it and turned it 180°. The Baja No-Pinch tool really simplifies mounting tires! Rebalanced the wheel (it didn't change significantly) and reinstalled. Dom from provided some missing information such as how tight should the sidecar hub nut be tightened and verified that I am not missing any pieces. What was really confusing me was why the axle was turning. As it turns out, the bearings on the 2WD model sidecar wheel aren't used as bearings since the axle shaft turns with the driveshaft. And the axle nut simply holds the wheel onto the axle and the splines. The actual "wheel bearings" are in the swing arm. If the bearings are tapered roller bearings, the axle nut provides the preload on the bearings. If it is too loose, the bearings will fail quickly. Tight is better than loose. There is a lot more stress on the bearings with this design as the load isn't centered over the bearings.
I do need to pick up some new cotter pins as they normally shouldn't be reused. I didn't have a now cotter pin the correct size so I reused the old one. There is still vibration at about 55mph and the only wheel not balanced is the rear. I am reading up on the removal procedure and will do that tomorrow afternoon. Maybe I'll even flip the front tire as there is some cupping evident.
RichardM, with sidecar wheel in air, put hands on 9 and 3 o'clock position. Does the wheel have any play as you move your arms in and out....shouldn't be any play. There's also a large washer that goes on the axle before you put the castle nut back on.....perhaps check that the bearings are properly pressed down by the threaded cap and lock ring is firmly in place? Before the newer sealed bearings, one would turn the threaded cap down till tight and then back it off about 1/8 of turn, now you just tighten it down snug.
ReplyDeleteIf you don't put the washer in right position on the axle, you can't tighten down the castle nut ....
without the washer in play, if you tighten down the castle nut too much, the wheel won't turn and binds....
DeleteWhen I first lifted the sidecar wheel off the ground there was side to side play and the nut wasn't tight. When I put the wheel back on, the cotter pin hole was not lined up when the nut was "snug". When backed off enough to put in the cotter pin, there was side to side play. When tightened enough for the cotter pin then there as binding. I did loosen the lock ring and check that the threaded cap was snug (it was) and replaced the lock ring. Suggestions?
DeleteGlad the outlet works. Definitely need heated gear at those temps.
ReplyDeleteI must be getting soft since last year I didn't break out the gear until well into November. But then again, the Ural doesn't have as much wind protection as the RT plus I have the sidecar windshield installed. You get quite a breeze from it...
DeleteAbout that sidecar windshield, you stand to gain about 4mpg more with it off....just saying.
DeleteI put it on since Bridget has been riding more often and we are heading for Anchorage next week. But I hear you on the mileage...
DeleteNot getting soft ... just wise. It's smart to keep warm. Hope the rest of the work goes as well.
ReplyDeleteI think that since I don't have to worry about the battery running down I'll use the heated gear more often. Plus, getting soft....
DeleteRichard, a little soft is well earned. Good luck with getting your balance/bearings worked out. I'll be watching.
ReplyDeleteHave fun on your trip!
Thanks, the rear had balance weights but they were in the wrong place. Removed them and added ¾ oz in the right place...
DeleteRichard, I swore I'd never use heated gear. The year I came to Alaska I caved in in Anchorage and bought heated gloves. The ride home was still wet, but my hands were always toasty. I still use those gloves in the winter here in Arizona when the temps get down into the low 30's. On all three days.
ReplyDeleteAll three days! I guess I thought that AZ got snow at least at the higher elevations. I haven't dug out the heated gloves yet.
DeleteSnow is up north about 140 miles from the valley. It doesn't get really cold in the Phoenix area for many days.
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