Pretty sorry trend shown here. After all of the walking around in San Francisco, I'm not doing very much now that I'm back in Fairbanks. Especially when I spend the time sitting around messing around with videos. I just need one more PBC video to "qualify" and they mentioned that they may need to create another category. I must admit that getting around with the Ural in the winter isn't anywhere the challenge that it would be on two wheels.
Since I'm closing in on the 22,500km service, I went ahead and started with some of the simple things. I had picked up several oil filters the last time I had visited Mickey's Mufflers in Anchorage. After removing the filter and disassembling it, there were no traces much of anything to be concerned about so I may skip the next filter change. At the last oil change, I didn't change the filter and used some 10w40 dino oil that was lying around the garage and it was only 1½ months ago. As you can see in the next photo, it had picked up quite a bit of moisture. I've been meaning to switch to a full synthetic before it got cold. At -40° 10w40 is has the consistency of honey where a full synthetic 5w30 will still pour.
The transmission oil was completely clean with no moisture evident. I replaced the engine oil with 5w30 full synthetic and the transmission with 20w50 full synthetic. Colder weather will be coming soon as January and February are usually our cold months. Singles and opposed twins are more susceptible to moisture in the crankcase than other designs as they both suck in their full engine displacement worth of air with every revolution through the crankcase vent.
Here is the checklist for the 22,500 km service. All I have left to do is checking the steering column bearings and the wheel bearings. In addition, I'm also planning on lubing the transmission input spline and both drive shafts. There is a mod to install a grease fitting in the drive shaft. It won't work on the main drive shaft but it will on the side car drive. Plus it'll take a while to check all of the fasteners.
- Change engine oil.
- Check final drive oil level.
- Inspect air filter element.
- Check fasteners for proper tightening.
- Check steering column bearings.
- Check adjustment of wheel bearings
I've my doubts adding a grease fitting to the drive shaft coming out of the transmission to lube the splines....I'll still be taking it apart every 5K km to re-grease. The U-joints involved are easy enough to get at, much better than on the older models.
ReplyDeleteI'm coming up on my 15K km service and will be doing what you're doing soon enough.
Oh, on my older rigs, I used to only change out the filter every other oil change (when subject to the 2500 km service interval)....but with the 2014's 5k km interval, I always replace the filter.
It doesn't get cold enough here, long enough anyways, to warrant using 5w30....I'll be curious to see how it "flows" for you in the upcoming months.
The video was pretty convincing and it would simplify the process. On mine, the grease fitting would hit the frame. I may still drill and tap the drive shaft and just put in a plug. Easier than pulling the final drive each time.
DeleteI really didn't need to change the filter but I wanted to see if there was any metal from all of the moisture in the oil. I'm planning on changing the filter every other oil change.
Don't worry, Richard got some exercise when I made him to out and clean the driveway.
ReplyDeleteThe Ural had no problem with the snow covered driveway.
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